Description

Aromas of cedar, smoke, lavender, eucalyptus and Mediterranean scrub form the nose on the fragrant 2020 Brunello from L’Aietta. Polished and elegantly structured, the palate shows great class, featuring red cherry, strawberry compote, spiced orange zest and licorice before a smoky mineral finish. Unlike many of the more forward 2020s out there, this is still youthfully austere and shows surprising aging potential for the vintage. What a beauty. Drink 2030–2040. Abv: 14% 97 points Kerin O’Keefe

The L’Aietta vineyard, where imperial troops encamped during the siege of Montalcino in 1555, lies just beneath the medieval town’s fortified walls at 390-500m (1,280-1,640 ft) above sea level and has a predominantly sandy topsoil and rocky subsoil. Mulinari’s second plot, located in Castelnuovo dell’Abate at 380m (1,247 ft) above sea level, has a mix of flaky schist known locally as galestro, and sand. Its eastern exposure lends a rather cool microclimate that helps keeps grapes fresh, crucial during today’s hotter vintages.

Francesco is a believer in non-intrusive winemaking. He vinifies his two vineyards separately in stainless steel tanks, but forgoes temperature control and uses selected yeasts only in difficult vintages. He then ages his Brunellos for three years in Slavonian casks that range in size from 5 to 10 hectoliters, while the Rosso spends a year in the same type of cask. L’Aietta’s Brunellos and Rossos are quintessential Sangiovese from Montalcino, with intense fragrances of violet, rose, forest berry and truffle while flavors include wild cherry, spice and savory mineral tempered by elegant restraint, vibrancy, structure and depth. Kerin O’Keefe

Francesco Mulinari, while a Montalcino native, does not come from a winemaking family. His father whimsically purchased 1 hectare of land, nestled up to the walls of the city center of Montalcino in the early 80’s as a place… to bring the family to picnic, nothing more. Previously this hectare had grazing sheep, and a small farm, ‘L’Aietta’ means little farm courtyard. Early in his highschool years, Francesco discovered that this little picnic spot with its few vines was registered in the DOCG of Brunello, and that on this ancient stoned terraced piece of land, he could produce his own wine. He got started right away, and at the tender age of 18 he produced his first vintage of Brunello in 2001. After high school Francesco went to school for oenology, taking jobs at other wineries, all the time working on his little piece of land, slowly building a tiny one roomed cellar out of stone, and re-working the terraces to re-plant Sangiovese vines in the bush method. Francesco graduated oenology school, and while still working part time for other wineries, then produced his first vintage of Rosso di Montalcino in 2005.

Everything very obviously done by hand (the steep grade of this vineyard is barely walkable, let alone accessible by tractor), and done by Francesco alone. At 30 he is on his 12th vintage this year, and has while always working organically, has just decided to become certified as well. The Rosso comes from another younger vineyard near Castelnuovo dell’Abate di Montalcino that he has since rented, and here the vines are trained in the traditional guyot method.